We ended much like we began, asking for water. By the time we reached Whitehorse city limits, our water supply was completely depleted and we still had another 28 km to go. Google maps took us the scenic route to get to our vehicle, which was parked at Glenn and Kathy’s here in Whitehorse. The route was gorgeous, but long! Almost three hours later, when we arrived at our destination, we were very parched. 

This ending, while uncomfortable, felt fitting in regard to the purpose of this trip. We’ve been raising money for Mennonite Central Committees water projects around the world, and we have felt firsthand the importance of water and the challenges that accompany not having easy access to it. Our deepest appreciation goes out to those that have already supported our efforts (we’ve surpassed our goal!) but every little bit helps and it’s not too late to add your own contribution: https://mcc.org/get-involved/giving/community-fundraisers/cycling-north-60

Squanga Lake was our home last night, and its namesake provided a picturesque companion.  Our campsite was lovely—private, conveniently located near the necessities (bear proof food storage, garbage (and recycling!) cans and the bathroom), and directly on the lake. Getting up, even if it was at 6 am, was worth it for the view! The one downside to this lovely spot was that it did not have any potable water supply. Our only option was to retrieve water from the lake and then boil it for drinking. (This was the cause of our lack of water later in the day.)

The day was relatively uneventful. 

Heat, sun, mountains, trees. A cool breeze (that turned into a warm breeze and we had to fight the whole way), but less bugs and clear skies. 

Just 40 km from our trusty Honda CRV, another spoke broke on Gerald’s bicycle. Erring on the side of caution, Gerald decided to keep going, but slowly. The rest of us had to adjust our speeds accordingly (so we could keep an eye on one another) and we all took extra time to breathe as our pace slowed down. 

Our vehicle had been dropped off at the home of Glenn and Kathy by Ray over a week ago. As we climbed yet another hill, expressing desire to drink from a lawn sprinkler on the way, we encouraged one another and were grateful to view our Jets licence plate. Glenn and Kathy gifted us with water (the greatest blessing!) and, through our exhaustion, we unpacked our bikes while Gerald joked about not being able to drive over 20km/hour. 

Upon a recommendation from our vehicle’s guardians, we headed to Klondike Rib & Salmon for a celebratory supper. The rustic setting did not disappoint, and we surprised one another by polishing off our plates. Cycling 117 kms creates quite the appetite!

Just across the street from the restaurant was a hotel. Since we hadn’t reserved anything for this night (being one day ahead of schedule), Gerald walked in and asked if they had a room. To avoid further searching, and because we wanted to reward ourselves, the price was agreed upon, breakfast vouchers were given and we proceeded to make multiple trips to and from the vehicle. First we brought our bags packed for the non-biking portion of our travels, then came the bikes, and, finally, we went back for all the items we had in our biking bags that we still needed. 

Showering was a satisfying experience. With the dirt and grim of the last couple days stripped away, we could climb into bed feeling refreshed and accomplished. 

Despite the challenges of this journey (broken spokes, isolation, lack of water, cold and rain) we have much to be grateful for. We arrived in Whitehorse safely (our daily prayer!) and we didn’t have any other tire issues!

On the road we had waved to vehicles and motorists and received waves, thumbs ups, peace signs and even a “rock-on” gesture in return. On a few occasions, passengers eagerly waved to us first and we found a certain solidarity with motorists. 

We’re grateful that we never had any dangerous encounters with wildlife (even though we saw quite a bit!) and got to enjoy the beauty that is Canada’s North.

Some new skills were developed—distinguishing a bear from a raven (Yukon’s national bird and a prominent fixture in the bushes on the side of the road could invoke fear from a distance because of their black shape and rustling) and finding the perfect road-side bathroom. With time, we became less afraid of mooning passing vehicles…

Food always tastes incredible after you’ve worked for it, and we’re grateful that we not only had the sustenance we needed, but were also able to taste goodies, such as award winning cinnamon rolls, that according to folks we met on our second day of cycling that asked us where we were “paddling,” locals drive over 45 minutes just to enjoy. 

Our goal for this adventure (as indicated on our fundraising page) was to cycle 1,111 km from Fort Liard, NWT to Whitehorse, Yukon. Having arrived at our destination, but still being 7 kms under our goal, Amelia will pedal the remaining distance on Thursday, so we can officially say we completed what we set out to do. 

The memories from this trip will stay with us forever. As will the lessons we’ve learned—don’t ever let fear get in your way of a new experience, and always have an extra supply of water!

Thank you for joining us for the journey!

*Thank you as well to those who answered the riddle! The correct answer is 4 ducks (in a square). Cheryl and Amelia got it. 😉

After a late night, we took advantage of this shorter kilometre day and slept in. Camping beside a lake provided some gorgeous views when we did wake up. Packed and ready, we enjoyed a decadent breakfast at the Yukon Motel, where we once again saw our McDonald’s trucker friend we had met yesterday! 

We connected to the wifi to complete the previous days blog post—which always slows us down—and didn’t leave the breakfast place until noon. 

This blog writer is feeling fatigued, so the rest of the days events have been recorded in point form…

• feeling like celebrities at the grocery store—with all the questions we received and people we met
• fresh creek water (yum!)
• black bear spotting
• road side lunch and shaded snack break
• Johnson’s Crossing view (AMAZING!)
• crazy bad black flies (mouths must remain securely closed at all times while riding or risk consuming a couple of these pesky creatures!)
• lovely campsite
• sharing stew
• sleeping! ☺️

Today, we cycled 71 kilometres. Tomorrow we need to pedal another 124 km to meet our goal of 1,111 km total. By Wednesday evening, we should be in Whitehorse!

The sunlight creates a warm glow in the tents, indicating it’s time to get up. At 6 am we were rolling our sleeping mats and donning our padded bike shorts. Marion served us a delicious breakfast and made us egg salad sandwiches for lunch. 

The morning was cool, but it soon warmed up. Even as we peeled off our wind breakers, we could see the snow spotting the mountain tops all around as. There were crystal blue skies and wispy clouds, but not nearly as many scenic views as yesterday. 

The day started slow and, with the exception of a short period in the afternoon, continued that way. The headwind was so strong, we found ourselves having to pedal downhill! We also passed through four construction zones that each began with a warning of loose gravel and  “extreme dust conditions.” Not something a cyclist ever wants to hear! 

While there wasn’t much to see in regard to scenery or wildlife, we had some interesting encounters with other people. 

At our campsite, Cheryl met Susan from Switzerland, a woman travelling across the country with a camper and a lot of sass. At a rest stop, where we ate our egg salad sandwiches, we met a trucker on his way to Calgary with an empty McDonalds truck and a broken transmission. He told us how he was waiting for a taxi to take him to Teslin (our destination for the day and the nearest town) but relaying on satellite service the taxi had passed right by him and somehow missed his huge red truck. 

Towards the end of the day, Gerald heard a snap and discovered that one of his spokes had broken. He managed to finagle it back into place but was quite concerned about continuing to bike with it in this state. Prayers were uttered and we continued on our way, albeit, with caution. A few kilometres later, a vehicle stopped to ask if we would like some water. It turned out he was a filmmaker creating a documentary about a cyclist travelling from Prudhoe Bay to Victoria. He had a vehicle full of tools, and enough knowledge to “fix” Gerald’s spook. When Dominque, the cyclist being documented, showed up, he shared that he had travelled 450 km with three broken spooks and had no problems. His bike wasn’t weighted down with gear, but this still provides some reassurance! Conversation ensued (most of which was likely captured on film) and we took a group photo before heading our separate ways. 

To arrive in Teslin we flew up to 51 km per hour downhill and then had to cross over the longest bridge on the Alaska highway. Upon arriving on the other side of the bay, we received a friendly wave from none other than the trucker we had met earlier in the day! His ride had arrived and he was  staying at the motel while he waited for his truck to be fixed. 

We were welcomed to the tenting area of the campsite by a very chatty motor-biker from Calgary. We set up our tents while he asked questions and told us about his own cycling adventure. We spent a total of 10 hours in the saddle today—just an hour and a half less than our longest day—and completed 125 km. We were ready for bed, but first made ourselves some “just add water” food in a bag for a bed-time snack and took a hike to the bathroom and back. 

Here’s a riddle for you from one of our food packages:

Two ducks in front of two other ducks, two ducks behind two other ducks, and two ducks beside two other ducks. How many ducks are there? 

(Put your answer in the comments and we’ll reveal it in a future post!) 

It was cold leaving our tents this morning (a mere 5 degrees Celsius!) but we did it. With oatmeal in our bellies, we left Big Creek Campground before 9 am.

The first few kilometres there was nothing but bush on either side of us—towering evergreens, and sprawling, stumpy deciduous. Then the tree tops began to sink until they were level with the road and we could see above them to the mountains beyond. Sometimes shimmering streams and large, oval lakes would reveal themselves from between the trees. Anomalies included a circular cleaning of grass, and a large patch of yarrow. On more than one downhill it looked like we were riding into a postcard. 

Apart from the views, much of today was the same as yesterday. We actually met two more cyclists—a retired couple from Southern B.C. travelling with their dog! 

We also spent a few minutes trying to decipher a message written with stones.

Shortly after a sign that said it was 15 miles to our targeted destination, it started to rain. This was the only interruption to our otherwise quite decent riding weather. (It had warmed up since the morning and we had even put on sunscreen!) The one advantage to the rain was that it seemed to deter the wind, which had been pushing against us up to this point. Climbing and fighting wind is not very enjoyable. 

Just 6 km from our camping grounds we made a stop at Rancheria River Falls. Following a tip from the cyclists we met earlier in the day, Cheryl and Amelia shimmied past the “Trail Closed” sign and ventured on to capture the views. It was quite clear which part of the boardwalk was broken, so we made our own path until that point and then clambered back onto the boardwalk. The views were worth ignoring the signs!

The Continental Divide is where we are setting up camp for night. There’s a restaurant here, but the cook had to leave recently, so one employee appears to be running the show herself and the menu is more limited as a result. Variety wasn’t required. The chili and beef stew Marion served us with fresh Kaiser buns were delicious. Cheryl and Gerald also enjoyed a cinnamon bun and pumpkin pie with whipped cream (respectfully) for dessert. 

75 km were cycled today and it felt really good to wash off our sunscreen and sweat with warm showers. The showers cost an additional $5 a person, but Gerald says it was worth 100 bucks. Reconnected thanks to wifi access, and recharged thanks to power outlets—we’re gearing up to re-enter the wilderness for our final three days before Whitehorse!

Thanks to fresh water from an underground spring, all of our bottles are refilled. (It is very nice to not have to boil water!) Tomorrow will be another long day, as we plan to attempt 131 km. Wish us luck!

Showered, packed and on the road again! We left our motel, after a nice conversation with the lady doing the cleaning, and a quick trip to pick up more bananas from the store, just after 10 am. 

The weather today was perfect for riding. Just bordering the hot/cold divide where it was occasionally too warm for a jacket and other times too cold to be without. The sky was mostly overcast and occasionally we got to see the sun. Perfect. 

Shortly after leaving Watson Lake, Gerald and Cheryl saw a fox heading into the trees. A little while later, Amelia saw two foxes perched on top of a hill near the road. All three were very cute! 

Roadside entertainment consisted of deciphering messages written with rocks along the highway. Some words were so washed out, they weren’t possible to make out. This custom of spelling names, messages and hometowns with stones, was started by a Fort Nelson swim team in the summer of 1990. The first message they wrote, “P-Break.”

Gerald and Cheryl both picked something up from the side of the road on our way to Big Creek Campground. Gerald found a wrench (a heavy-duty one!) and Cheryl held on to a cloth that later became very helpful in cleaning off our picnic table. 

For something completely new, we met a fellow touring cyclist today! He was en route to Watson Lake while we were heading the opposite direction. We stopped and chatted for a bit. He gave us a tip of where not to camp in Whitehorse and complained about water not being available at campsites in Yukon. We told him about our vehicle in Whitehorse and our plan to stock up on water for our return drive, in case we encounter any parched cyclists. 

We were against wind and mostly up hill today, so our average speed was fairly low. After 61 km, we pulled into Big Creek Campground by 4:20 pm and pitched our tents. A squirrel was our biggest problem during supper hour. We are happy this campground has bear proof (and squirrel proof!) food lockers for us to use. (It certainly beats locking our food bags in an outhouse, like we did on our first night of tenting!) Now we boil water from the creek to fill our bottles and explore this small, 15 site campground while we wait for it to get dark enough to sleep. 

Watson Lake in Yukon, Canada is a lovely little town spread out along the Alaska Highway with a population of 1,133 (in 2021). This tourist hub just north of British Colombia has been our home for the past two days. 

After a great night at Cedar Lodge Motel, we packed up our bikes and travelled 2 km  further into town to find A Nicer Motel, where we had a room reserved for the next two nights. Once our room was ready, we rearranged the furniture to make our bikes fit and settled in. Since there was only one bed, Gerald volunteered to sleep on the floor, all to make his daughter happy! 

Rest days are a wonderful time to get other things done. In between doing laundry, and visiting the grocery store (which we did quite a bit), we also found some time to be tourists. 

Watson Lake is home to the original Sign Post Forest, one of the most famous landmarks along the Alaska Highway. It was started when an injured soldier assigned to repair directional signposts added the distance to his own hometown out of homesickness. As of last year, the forest had 126,490 signs, and it continues to grow each day. Bearing witness to the thousands of other travellers from all over the world that have ventured to this place was a profound experience and we found ourselves there twice in the past two days. 

During this break in cycling, we have still been thinking a lot about cycling. We made friends with the ladies at the visitors centre who were very knowledgeable about the area and provided useful information for the last leg of our journey. These employees couldn’t get over the fact that we’re on bikes that don’t have motors and decided Cheryl was a doppelgänger to their friend and former Watson Lake dweller. With details about campsites, water and grocery stores for the next 454 km, we now have a plan to complete our cycling trip by Wednesday, just five days from now. 

Today and yesterday—our rest days—we repacked our bags with clean clothes, went grocery shopping for supplies, finalized our route, and went for a 3 km hike around Wye Lake. We also tried to get some extra sleep. Gerald bought a toothbrush, so he no longer has to use Cheryl’s (he forgot his in the van) and we met other cyclists and got to talk about biking. Overall, we’re now ready to conquer the final stretch of our planned route. Whitehorse, here we come!

*The cell reception will likely be limited after we leave Watson Lake and we don’t know if we’ll be able to access wifi. Just a heads up if you’re following this adventure in real time!*

5:35 am. The alarm went off and we were packing. Due to a misunderstanding of our order, we were all served the “Trucker’s Special” for breakfast, and proceeded to be defeated by the portion sizes. 

We set out in the rain at quarter to 8. Knowing the next available lodging wasn’t for another 150k, we had set that as our goal and planned accordingly. At 50 km we stopped for a nutrition break of premade tuna sandwiches. Another 50 (or so) km after that we had peanut butter banana wraps with dried berries. At both stops we enjoyed giant cookies from Coal River for dessert. There were a few other stops beyond our two longer food breaks. Side of the road restrooms called as needed, rain gear came all the way off (thankfully!) and snacks were consumed throughout the day. 

Wildlife spotting was bison heavy today. Three of them crossed the road in front of Cheryl and Amelia, while Gerald, having passed the bison before they started moving, coasted down the hill before them. At another point, a car pulled to the side to warn Amelia that about 15 km ahead there was a construction zone on the right and a herd of about 8 bison on the left. “Good luck!” He said, as he drove off. It was less than 15 km and there were more than 8 bison. Amelia estimates there were more like 15 in the herd that included both mothers and calves. With little other choice, we faced forward and kept pedalling, all the while trying to ignore the bison that stared us down. 

Two bears were also spotted today. Instead of making a big fuss about our presence, we just let them be and they didn’t take any notice of us. The second bear Gerald didn’t even see. It was located just over the height of our heads on a grassy hill right next to the road, snout to the tree line. From a distance, it very much resembled a large rock. Amelia was relieved to know that she wasn’t just becoming paranoid, and the black shape was in fact moving. 

At a small store in Contact Creek, Gerald got a cold drink and a muffin while Cheryl and Amelia slurped up some baby food (surprisingly delicious!). A gentleman and his dog stopped Gerald to ask what he was doing. When he passed by the ladies, he practically bowed while saying, “You have my deepest admiration!” Those words provided additional fuel to keep us going!

When we asked an employee at Coal River Services about the terrain of the road to Watson Lake, he told us it was mostly flat. He clearly has never been to Manitoba! According to Gerald’s Garmin, we made a new ascend record AND distance record today The hills weren’t as long as other days, but their presence added to the challenge of the day. 

Today, we entered the Yukon! 

Gerald has now cycled in every province/territory in Canada (apart from Nunavut where there are no cycling roads). Being in such an isolated part of the country, there isn’t a lot of a signage, nor is there a lot of cell service. As we approached our destination, we gushed over the presence of hydro lines and cheered at the sight of city signs. We made it to the 60th parallel, took one final snack break and powered through the last 12 km of the day. 

Since we didn’t have a reservation for night (we were originally only scheduled to arrive here on Thursday), we decided we would stop at the first place we saw to check if they had vacancy and work our way into the city centre from there. 

We got lucky at the second stop we made. Cedar Lodge Motel had a suite with a full kitchenette and two queen size beds available for the night. The only problem, arriving here put us at just 147 km for the day, and Gerald was really hoping to break his previous record of 149. Determined to crush goals, Gerald and Amelia unloaded their bikes at the motel and then pedalled to the city centre in search of food and a new record. They found a celebratory ice cream bar, which they shared, and some dark chocolate for Cheryl.

Peeling through town with the fabulously freeing feel of unweighted bikes, the setting sun turning the sky pink in their mirrors, was the absolute best way to finish off the day. Our total distance was 152 km, and wow, are we looking forward to having two days off! 

Packed up by 8:30 am, we left our electric fence protected campground and travelled across the road to get breakfast. At the Liard River Hot Springs Lodge, we had a wonderful waitress that had only just started, but did an exceptional job. She gave us the wifi password for free (saving us 5 bucks each), gave Cheryl extra toast, and provided complimentary waters before we left. 

Wifi seems to have a way of making time fly—we didn’t hit the road until closer to 10:30 am. Yesterday, we left the Rocky Mountains behind and our prairie legs and lungs are grateful for it!

We had fabulous weather (not too hot, no rain, and just a bit of wind). The clear skies allowed for the incredible views to be throughly enjoyed during the 58 km ride. Our 4.5 hours of time spent in transit might have been shorter if it hadn’t been for all the wildlife we saw.  

5 bear sightings, 6 bears total. A new record! 

The first sighting came shortly after we passed a construction zone. A friendly worker tipped us off about a nearby artesian well. From the start of the path leading to the well we had the perfect view of two black bears in the long grass beside the highway. Guess who didn’t get any fresh water!

A little later there was a bear to our right in the ditch, possibly enjoying some juicy berries. 

Two bears crossed over the road in front of us on two different occasions. Both times we saw them from a distance and allowed them to follow their planned trajectory before passing with our whistles blaring. 

Finally, there was the bear that we received two warnings about from cars travelling the opposite direction. After it had also crossed the road and we had safely cycled past it, we were greeted by a friendly lady in a camper van who offered us water and had been watching to make sure we didn’t have any troubles with the bear. The kindness of strangers. 

Just two kilometres from our night lodging, a long tail was seen swishing at the side of the road. A large bison turned his head and stared at us while we slowly backed away. It was intimidated by semis—moving towards the trees when they came by—and agitated by trucks—attempting a stand off with one and strutting back and forth across the highway to prove its dominance. The bison kept moving further down the highway, but stayed frighteningly close to the road. It felt like forever before the bison finally moved far enough into the trees that we felt safe enough to pedal past. It was the longest two kilometres of our ride, so far! 

With all the wildlife we saw today, we were really looking forward to staying indoors tonight. Unfortunately, someone messed up our booking and the reservation that had been made at Coal River Services Motel was not recorded. After we’d set up our clothesline and pulled out our tents to dry, a guilty employee came by to offer us an old cabin, at no extra charge. A place with no electricity, or beds, but a wood stove and a roof to go over our heads. We graciously accepted (anticipating rain tonight and tomorrow—we didn’t want to pack up wet tents, again). 

We’ve spent the evening preparing to cover a whopping 150 km tomorrow by pre-making sandwiches and wraps. As we chill by our campsite, slapping mosquitoes and blog writing, we’re grateful for the laughter and memories that this trip continues to give us. We’ll be praying for a few less bear, and bison sightings tomorrow. 

Breakfast with a side of humorous signs was served this morning. Loaded up on eggs and toast, we loaded out of our motel room and were on the Alaska highway by 10:30 am. 

We began with Mancho Lake to our left and mountain cliffs to our right—a combination that prepared our vision for the majestic views to come. Crystal clear turquoise waters rolling over rocks; rugged, peaked back drops; stones deposited by running water juxtaposing the surrounding green with stunning formations—God is good. 

We saw two bears at different points in our journey today. We also saw a large bison cross the road. He then proceeded to hang out near the sign warning of his existence in the area—a rather fitting photo opportunity!

Rain came and went and came again. It seemed every time we took off our rain gear, a cloud would split open in the following five minutes. The laundry we had tied to the top of our bags got three or four extra rinses and was just as damp when we arrived at our campsite as it had been at the start of the day. 

To enter Liard River Hot Springs Campground, we had to balance our bikes while passing through the pedestrian entrance of an electric fence set up around the campground to provide protection against wildlife. The electric fence provided reassurance as we pitched our tents next to wild raspberry bushes. Although, at supper, there was an agile, bold squirrel curious about our food, so we still had to be careful with our sustenance. 

Upon eating, we meandered down a lovely boardwalk to the natural hot springs located just outside the fenced in campground. The smell of sulphur greeted our nostrils as warmth engulfed our bodies. There is no better way to relax while on a cycling trip! We cycled 64 km today. We’ll sleep well tonight! 

The temperature outside was just 7 degrees Celsius this morning. It was a good thing we were sleeping in a cabin! 

Gerald enjoyed a big breakfast at the Toad River Lodge Restaurant and the other two opted for oatmeal in the cabin. 

We set out just after check-out at 11 am, and stopped for quick breaks every 10 km, or so, until we reached our destination around 5 pm. 

Today’s 51 km held some incredible views. Picture sheer mountain cliffs on one side of you and a clean, tumbling river on the other. Towering mountain peaks covered with evergreens in every shade of green fill your vision and the brilliance of wildflowers dances in your periphery. 

At one point in the day we saw a yarrow flower growing in the middle of the highway. While we were stopped to capture it on film, a car drove past, and knocked off a few buds. It bent over and bounced right back—a true illustration of resilience! 

There were many animal warning signs along the road, but the only spotting we had today was (what we believe to have been) a caribou and its calf. Amelia sees the wildlife and Gerald and Cheryl spot the berries—today it was wild strawberries!

Layers was the clothing game today. It was always a question if the jackets should stay on or be taken off. We got warm on the uphills, but the downhills were cold. The final few kilometres were especially chilly as the wind picked up. 

Tonight, we had planned to camp at Strawberry Fields Campground. Instead, we’re keeping warm (and dry) in a motel called Double G Service because it’s really too cold to be tenting. Plus, we are on vacation.